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Original xbox won't turn on, but looks good on the inside.

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Original xbox won't turn on, but looks good on the inside.

Postby logane1102 » Thu Jan 18, 2018 10:38 pm

I bought an original xbox on ebay. The seller said the disc tray was stuck, but that was the only problem mentioned.

At first, it wouldn't turn on at all.

I opened it up and blew all the dust out of it with a shop vac.

I put it back together, and now it struggles to deliver power. It keeps turning on and then shutting off after 1/2 a second to a whole second. I held down the power button for a while and it eventually turned on but gave me green/red flashing light, and no video.

I tried many times after that, and the most it could muster is spinning the fan on the GPU for about a second. As of now If I hold the power button down, the tiny GPU fan will spin up and down, sometimes also making the other big fan move a tiny bit.

If I try to power it on (and fail obviously), then disconnect the power plug, the press the power button, the gpu fan will spin a little and then I will hear a little *SQUEAK* from what I can only assume is the PSU.

I checked the capacitors on the motherboard and PSU, and checked the bottom of the PSU and saw nothing in bad shape. Everything looks good, yet, it cannot turn on.

I was going to replace the PSU with another one I have that I know works, but the connectors are different.

My motherboard has a conexant chip in it, and the PSU connector has only one row of pins instead of 2. A total of 12 wires connect to the motherboard via the main power plug on the inside of the console. The replacement psu that I have has 16 wires.

It has a seagate HDD, and a Thompson DVD drive.

This is a link to a picture that most closely resembles my mobo. The only difference i can see is the capacitors next to the CPU heatsink are the silvery-type ones, instead of green like in the picture. Everything else is identical.

https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File ... ard-BR.jpg

Do I need to replace the PSU? or is it something else?
If the PSU is the problem, is it possible to replace it with a PSU that has a different connector?
(Cut the connector off the old psu and splice the wires from the new one to the connector)
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Re: Original xbox won't turn on, but looks good on the insid

Postby CBThatGuy » Thu Jan 18, 2018 11:08 pm

Sounds to me like a PSU issue. When I had that same issue, I took mine out to find the connection to the power cord needed to be resoldered. When I did that it worked good as new again.
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Re: Original xbox won't turn on, but looks good on the insid

Postby kaos_engr » Fri Jan 19, 2018 12:26 am

logane1102 wrote:I bought an original xbox on ebay. The seller said the disc tray was stuck, but that was the only problem mentioned.

At first, it wouldn't turn on at all.

I opened it up and blew all the dust out of it with a shop vac.

I put it back together, and now it struggles to deliver power. It keeps turning on and then shutting off after 1/2 a second to a whole second. I held down the power button for a while and it eventually turned on but gave me green/red flashing light, and no video.

I tried many times after that, and the most it could muster is spinning the fan on the GPU for about a second. As of now If I hold the power button down, the tiny GPU fan will spin up and down, sometimes also making the other big fan move a tiny bit.


I suspect trace corrosion caused by leaked clock cap electrolyte. This 1F 2.5V Aerogel SuperCap is located at overlapping silkscreen C7G9/C7G10. Damaged power and eject traces running along the outer edge on the bottom (solder side) of the motherboard from the front panel header connection to the motherboard to the system management controller (SMC) PIC processor. Without the signal reaching the SMC unimpeded the Xbox power on/off and eject operations are sporadic.

I had one ogXbox that powered on all by itself after a few hours as it was still plugged into A/C power. Others only powered on when A/C power was applied and could not be powered off without pulling the plug.

If I try to power it on (and fail obviously), then disconnect the power plug, the press the power button, the gpu fan will spin a little and then I will hear a little *SQUEAK* from what I can only assume is the PSU.

I checked the capacitors on the motherboard and PSU, and checked the bottom of the PSU and saw nothing in bad shape. Everything looks good, yet, it cannot turn on.

I was going to replace the PSU with another one I have that I know works, but the connectors are different.

My motherboard has a conexant chip in it, and the PSU connector has only one row of pins instead of 2. A total of 12 wires connect to the motherboard via the main power plug on the inside of the console. The replacement psu that I have has 16 wires.

It has a seagate HDD, and a Thompson DVD drive.

This is a link to a picture that most closely resembles my mobo. The only difference i can see is the capacitors next to the CPU heatsink are the silvery-type ones, instead of green like in the picture. Everything else is identical.

https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File ... ard-BR.jpg

Do I need to replace the PSU? or is it something else?
If the PSU is the problem, is it possible to replace it with a PSU that has a different connector?


All ogXbox power supply pinouts: http://diy.sickmods.net/Tutorials/Xbox1 ... y_Pinouts/

(Cut the connector off the old psu and splice the wires from the new one to the connector)


V1.0 Xbox Power/Eject continuity check:

pe_trace_10-11.jpg

Source: http://diy.sickmods.net/Tutorials/Xbox1 ... t_Pinouts/

Trace corrosion repair for v1.0/1.1:
http://fillwithcoolblogname.blogspot.co ... epair.html

There's a tutorial on TiZ but for 1.2-1.3 motherboards: http://www.theisozone.com/tutorials/xbo ... on-repair/
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Re: Original xbox won't turn on, but looks good on the insid

Postby logane1102 » Fri Jan 19, 2018 3:03 am

I removed the clock capacitor and cleaned the area where it seemed to leak, but that did not change anything. I guess the PSU is crap, so I will try to replace the PSU by splicing wires with a different type PSU.
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Re: Original xbox won't turn on, but looks good on the insid

Postby logane1102 » Fri Jan 19, 2018 3:12 am

Umm, how would go about splicing the wires from a 1.0-1.1 PSU (Top left) connector to a 1.6 Delta PSU (Top Right)? http://diy.sickmods.net/Tutorials/Xbox1 ... y_Pinouts/

The wiring diagram shows that a 1.6 delta PSU only has one | 0V STB | 3.3V ON | wire, but the
1.0 - 1.1 PSU needs 3 | 0V STB | 3.3V ON | wires. I am a noob when it comes to being an electrician, so I don't know how much I can mix and match wires to connect the PSU up properly.

A guide specifically for this PSU conversion would be awesome.
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Re: Original xbox won't turn on, but looks good on the insid

Postby kaos_engr » Fri Jan 19, 2018 3:17 am

logane1102 wrote:I removed the clock capacitor and cleaned the area where it seemed to leak, but that did not change anything. I guess the PSU is crap, so I will try to replace the PSU by splicing wires with a different type PSU.

The electrolyte can run down the edge of the board and get to the very thin traces that run near the edge on the bottom side of the motherboard damaging them. These traces carry the power and eject button closure status from the front panel buttons to the PIC processor to toggle PSU full power on/standby off and DVD tray eject/load functions.

Example trace damage on bottom side of motherboard grid section V7:

Image
Right-click on image and open in new tab to see original size: 1478x328 pixels.
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Re: Original xbox won't turn on, but looks good on the insid

Postby logane1102 » Fri Jan 19, 2018 3:30 am

Nope, the traces all around the mobo look solid.
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Re: Original xbox won't turn on, but looks good on the insid

Postby kaos_engr » Fri Jan 19, 2018 3:33 am

logane1102 wrote:Umm, how would go about splicing the wires from a 1.0-1.1 PSU (Top left) connector to a 1.6 Delta PSU (Top Right)? http://diy.sickmods.net/Tutorials/Xbox1 ... y_Pinouts/

The wiring diagram shows that a 1.6 delta PSU only has one | 0V STB | 3.3V ON | wire, but the
1.0 - 1.1 PSU needs 3 | 0V STB | 3.3V ON | wires. I am a noob when it comes to being an electrician, so I don't know how much I can mix and match wires to connect the PSU up properly.

A guide specifically for this PSU conversion would be awesome.

I don't think you can use a v1.6 Xbox on a v1.0 or v1.2-1.5. Try one of the other PSUs for a v1.2-1.5. A few wire colors changed but the standby (STB) and ON voltage levels are the same between the versions.
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Last edited by kaos_engr on Fri Jan 19, 2018 3:38 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Original xbox won't turn on, but looks good on the insid

Postby logane1102 » Fri Jan 19, 2018 3:34 am

Oh, and the orange point in the diagram for the 1.0 - 1.1 PSU (Top left) has 2 orange wires in that one pinhole.
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Re: Original xbox won't turn on, but looks good on the insid

Postby kaos_engr » Fri Jan 19, 2018 3:42 am

logane1102 wrote:Oh, and the orange point in the diagram for the 1.0 - 1.1 PSU (Top left) has 2 orange wires in that one pinhole.

You only need 1 orange wire. Both of them on a 1.2-1.5 tie back to the same point from the PSU. But, if you can get both crimped to that 1 pin. :) Oh, wait...

I see there are actually 3 orange wires on a Delta 1.2-1.5 PSU:

  • 2 larger gauge orange wires (tied to the same point on the PSU) - 3.3V supply lines and
  • 1 smaller gauge orange wire - 3.3V sense line to measure the 3.3V supply voltage level.
You'd need one of the larger orange wires (3.3V supply) and the fine orange wire (3.3VS sense) attached to the orange pin of the 1.0/1.1 Xbox power connector.

Gray 1.0/1.1 is Brown on 1.2-1.5 Delta PSU or Purple on 1.2-1.5 Foxlink PSU. Blue and white same for 1.0/1.1 and Delta PSU but Foxlink 1.2-1.5 PSU colors are different, Gray and Green, that match up to the function for Blue and White respectively on a 1.0/1.1 PSU.
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Re: Original xbox won't turn on, but looks good on the insid

Postby logane1102 » Fri Jan 19, 2018 4:33 am

Not the delta 1.2 - 1.5 PSU, I have a replacement 1.6 Delta PSU They are different.
I don't know if the 1.6 Delta PSU is compatible with the Xbox 1.0 - 1.1 PSU, even when splicing wires. But don't take my word for it, I could be wrong. Like I said I am a noob.
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Re: Original xbox won't turn on, but looks good on the insid

Postby kaos_engr » Fri Jan 19, 2018 5:07 am

logane1102 wrote:Not the delta 1.2 - 1.5 PSU, I have a replacement 1.6 Delta PSU They are different.
I don't know if the 1.6 Delta PSU is compatible with the Xbox 1.0 - 1.1 PSU, even when splicing wires. But don't take my word for it, I could be wrong. Like I said I am a noob.


I don't think they are compatible. :( As I already stated.
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